THE MINISTRY OF CULTURAL AFFAIRS
Wrappers of Rivers
- PHOTOGRAPHY: ALERUCHI KINIKA / THE REPUBLIC.
THE MINISTRY OF CULTURAL AFFAIRS
Wrappers of Rivers
- PHOTOGRAPHY: ALERUCHI KINIKA / THE REPUBLIC.
As a little girl growing up in Rivers State in southern Nigeria, photographer Aleruchi Kinika was surrounded by wrappers. They were an unremarkable part of everyday life and held little meaning to her little-girl mind. It would not be until many years later when she had become a mature young woman that she would come to appreciate the cultural significance of these seemingly ordinary materials. It is this remarkable cultural significance that she aims to capture in her photo series, ‘Wrappers of Rivers’, conceived during the 2024 Alternative Heritage Workshop organized by The Republic, StoryMi and the French Embassy in Nigeria.
For The Rise of African Architecture, we spoke to Kinika about this project, but also about the role wrappers play across different ethnic groups in Rivers State. She explains that beyond being a symbol of social and cultural identity or helping to enhance physical attractiveness, wrappers function as a ‘way of connecting generations [and] preserving the heritage and values of each ethnic group.’
By highlighting the central role wrappers occupy in the cultural rituals of several ethnic groups in Rivers State, their ability to facilitate familial bonding and the similarities in the wrapping practices of different ethnic groups in the state, Kinika aims to provide a ‘nuanced understanding of cultural practices in modern-day Rivers State.’ She also helps us understand the archival intent behind her work, taking us behind the scenes of her photography, what this project means to her and her plans for the future.
THE REPUBLIC
What is the significance of wrappers to the people of Rivers State?
ALERUCHI KINIKA
To the people of Rivers State, Wrappers are a symbol of social and cultural identity. Just like every form of beautification ritual, they serve to enhance physical attractiveness too. They play significant roles in creating community and belongingness. They are also a way of connecting generations, preserving heritage and values of each ethnic group. These wrappers are used for numerous activities. I did not tie a lot as a child as children rarely do except when they perform cultural dances in dramas, weddings, etc.
THE REPUBLIC
What inspired you to embark on this project? What story were you trying to tell?
ALERUCHI KINIKA
I was inspired by the need to capture and document culture as it is in the present, because someday it will serve as a reference material in preserving heritage and as great archival work. This project was conceived from the need to show personal and community connection amongst ethnic groups in Rivers State.
‘Wrappers of Rivers’ provides a more nuanced understanding of cultural practices in modern day Rivers State while connecting it to practices that have gone on way longer before I was born. I also noticed the similarities within ethnicities which I wanted to highlight. Tobler’s first law of geography states that things that are closer are more related than things that are farther apart. Embarking on showing the individuality of cultures between different ethnic groups and how similar they can be was also a story to tell.
One of those wrappers is the George. It comes in different colours like red, blue and purple. Almost everyone has a George. I have never come across anyone who does not have one. These are strings that bind us, and it was very interesting to see. I have always been fascinated by life and community, and what makes people who they are. Being Nigerian, you’re aware of different tribes and cultures around you. This gives you an opportunity to learn the way of life of people while also being aware of yours.
THE REPUBLIC
How much has modernism affected the culture of wrappers?
ALERUCHI KINIKA
Well, I’d say people prefer wearing ‘easier’ clothes, especially younger people. Men, for example, are meant to tie george with their etibo but instead prefer a simple trouser. Younger ladies would prefer wearing a simple dress than wrappers. Factors could include: they find it heavy, stressful, and the blouses a little itchy.
Most people consider wrappers, especially the overlapping two-step ones, to be for older or married women. So, it’s mostly reserved for weddings and other necessary rituals. Wrappers come in different types. Some have beads embedded on them, which can make them heavier. Some wrappers like the india have elephants and birds designed on them. Some are thick, and others are of lighter materials—which aren’t heavy but aren’t as simple as wearing a dress. The art of tying wrappers is also quite delicate. You have to widen your legs when tying the first one, to aid easy mobility. It has to be secured firmly around your waist to avoid it dropping, and then the second is wrapped more lackadaisically as it can be redone at any time. As long as the first one is secure, you have almost nothing to worry about.
THE REPUBLIC
In some cultures, wrappers are more associated with women. Is it the same in Rivers State?
ALERUCHI KINIKA
For certain rituals, they are more women focused. Women tie a lot more wrappers than men do, and there are traditional rituals that focus on the tying of wrapper or the gifting of wrapper to women. Men usually don’t have this. However, they take part in tying (without any necessary ritual). In Isiokpo, for example, where only men are made chiefs, george wrappers are gifted to them on the day of coronation. George is the most commonly tied wrapper for men. During weddings, they are spread on the floor for brides to dance on, and just like in different cultures around the world, beautification rituals are primarily focused on women.
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THE REPUBLIC
Which image from this project stands out the most to you, and why?
ALERUCHI KINIKA
I have a lot of images to choose from, so this puts me on the spot. But if I must choose, one image stands out the most to me for so many reasons. When we dress up, the headgear is usually the last thing we put on. Without it, you can truly see the simplicity yet grace of these wrappers. The plain white blouse against the patterned overlapping wrappers; the background consisting of a dining table, chairs, curtains and fridge; the scattered wrappers on the black leather couch. All these play an important role of relatability. I capture Lolia as she waits for her mother to bring her headgear and jewellery; a common bonding activity between mother and daughter. Sometimes, these interesting pieces of textiles aren’t exactly the easiest to tie on your own and a little help does go a long way.
THE REPUBLIC
How do you approach storytelling through photography, especially in this particular series?
ALERUCHI KINIKA
I wanted to tell the story of the wrappers and Rivers people as one. So many factors like research and interviews were necessary, and then there was the presentation aspect of it all. I have a pretty interesting approach to photography and I did not want to lose that language. However, I also wanted to maintain the authenticity of each fabric. Colour grading plays an important role in conveying emotions, so I went with colours that I felt convey the Rivers atmosphere, which are cooler tones. I had to incorporate emotions and beauty the best way I know how. Photography gives endless possibilities and, for this series, every step was a way to apply all I have learnt, while also learning newer things.
Shooting wasn’t exactly easy. I had to reach out to people and tell them what the project was about. That wasn’t the hard part because everyone was excited about it. The hard part was finding a schedule that fit. Eventually we did, but we had to go wrapper after wrapper. Deciding on the tribes to focus on was also key in decision making. Rivers State has over 20 ethnic groups. It is a continuous project, and I hope to cover more than I have.
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THE REPUBLIC
Does your work aim to challenge or reflect societal norms? If so, how?
ALERUCHI KINIKA
I’d say my work is more focused on both. Reflecting life as it is now, while highlighting the challenges affecting the heritage of my people. Wrappers are a normal way of life but for some reason it seems not many people are interested in them. It is like being surrounded by beauty and not exactly understanding it. Sometimes, people don’t see their stories or think they are worth telling and that’s where I come in.
From what I gathered from my research, women adore their wrappers. It is not uncommon to see people buying wrappers for new occasions. But there were the basics that needed to be in your box. The people of Rivers dress quite colourfully, so it is a whole array of colours. Almost every blouse goes with almost every wrapper. The older population has found a way to make it fun for themselves and mostly only complain about the price of wrappers as they have become more expensive to buy.
THE REPUBLIC
What role does photography play in documenting history and culture, particularly in this project?
ALERUCHI KINIKA
Photography is very important when it comes to preserving history and time. There are certain things that would not be as well-documented through written format that photography tends to encapsulate. You get to see things as they are or were. Photography is a form of self-expression and also a great tool for preserving memories. When it comes to history and culture, words can leave out things a photograph would not.
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THE REPUBLIC
What do you hope viewers take away from this project?
ALERUCHI KINIKA
I hope they can see Rivers State and its people for more than what they think they know—for the traditions and cultures that make the people of Rivers State. The project could also highlight some similarities within Rivers culture and the viewer’s culture. I also want viewers to familiarize themselves with interesting textiles.
THE REPUBLIC
How did you prepare for this project? Did you have to read any books or speak with any experts before embarking on it?
ALERUCHI KINIKA
Preparing for this project was fun for me because I am a Rivers girl. I grew up around these wrappers but only got to understand them more as an adult and during my research. I had to travel, talk to people both young and old, read and do all the necessary research that I could, and thankfully, I had amazing people assisting me. There was also the power of observation, which is crucial in photography. So, it was basically showing life as I know it and expressing the artistry in it.
Earlier in 2024, I travelled to Bakana, an island in Rivers State, and by then I was already thinking about the connections between various ethnic groups. Later in the year, I visited Okrika, another island in Rivers State, and got to know more about their culture and the wrappers that stood out to me. In August 2024, I was selected to be part of the StoryMi and The Republic Alternative Heritage programme, where I presented the project idea. With the help of the residency programme, especially our photography mentor, Mr Andrew Esiebo, I concluded on how I was going to handle the project.
When I came back to Port Harcourt in November 2024, I began working on the field aspect of the project. I reached out to my cousins and family members from different ethnic groups, and we talked about our wrappers and what they are used for. Daniel Eche and Lolia Amachree played very important roles in this project, as they aided in my research and even went as far as contacting their mothers. I reached out to aunties and grandmas to learn more about the history of wrappers to the Rivers people. I learned the different types of wrappers like the george, krukrubite, blangidi, and how they are styled and what they signify. Considering it is a continuous project, I intend to travel more and discover other threads that bind us as a people.
During the course of research, I read other works that have focused on the dressing of the Rivers people like ‘Traditional Dressing of the Iwhnuruohna (Ikwerre); Pre Colonial to Modern’ by Chikere Wanjoku. I interviewed people from Kalabari, Opobo, Ikwerre, Etche, Ogoni and Okrika. Being around all these as a child also played a huge factor, as sometimes I knew just what I was searching for. The preparation and execution of this project was generally an interesting one for me. I am looking forward to how far I can take it in the future⎈
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