Fieldwork in South Africa: Then and Now

The changing fortunes of Eskom reflect the fortunes of South Africa; while South Africa itself has undergone huge changes between the fieldwork visits, there is a certain element of ‘plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose.

Written by Nomtha Gray

Dec 4, 2019

South Africa, Northern Cape Province, 2008: New housing with Eskom power installations at Victoria West. MEDIA CLUB SOUTH AFRICA

‘At best, [South Africa] is going through oscillations, twists, folds and turns. At worst, it is in a stationary state, and in some areas of social and political life almost close to stasis,’ (Achille Mbembe, Mail & Guardian, 28.03.2013).

While writing up my fieldwork notes for my recent Master of Science degree, I was unexpectedly reminded of notes I made during fieldwork for my Bachelor of Engineering degree, which I undertook some twenty-something years ago. The subject matters were quite different: my BEng project considered a theory of world-class manufacturing more relevant to a newly democratic and inclusive economy whereas the MSc focused on anti-corruption efforts in procurement. While much had changed in South Africa during that time, the same concern raised as a risk factor in 1997 had, by 2019, become a full-blown crisis: the instability of the state-owned power company, Eskom.

My memories of arriving in South Africa for the first time are muddied. I was born to Xhosa parents in exile and, as such, I had never been able to visit. My parents had eagerly returned to South Africa almost as soon as they were allowed, and my father had taken up work in the diplomatic service. This was not only my first visit to Africa, but it was also my first trip outside Europe. It was one that was both daunting and exciting, as a result.

At the time, almost no academic writing considered the idea of world-class manufacturing in an African context, but I was lucky that my supervisor had taken an interest in forging links with South African institutions. Back then, the paperwork required to undertake fieldwork was minimal. My family loosely arranged my itinerary and some interview contacts, and so I arrived with my four-year-old son in tow to a hot, dusty Johannesburg Airport. I was to meet my tatomncinci (my father’s younger brother) at the airport for what was actually the second time (the first having been some ten years prior to that in Geneva Airport). He would fly with my son to Port Elizabeth while I went on to Cape Town to stay with friends of his and carry out interviews there for the first few days.

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About the Author

Nomtha Gray

is an independent writer based in Oxford and Johannesburg.

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Fieldwork in South Africa: Then and Now