Fieldwork in South Africa: Then and Now

The changing fortunes of Eskom reflect the fortunes of South Africa; while South Africa itself has undergone huge changes between the fieldwork visits, there is a certain element of ‘plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose.

Written by Nomtha Gray

Dec 4, 2019

South Africa, Northern Cape Province, 2008: New housing with Eskom power installations at Victoria West. MEDIA CLUB SOUTH AFRICA

‘At best, [South Africa] is going through oscillations, twists, folds and turns. At worst, it is in a stationary state, and in some areas of social and political life almost close to stasis,’ (Achille Mbembe, Mail & Guardian, 28.03.2013).

While writing up my fieldwork notes for my recent Master of Science degree, I was unexpectedly reminded of notes I made during fieldwork for my Bachelor of Engineering degree, which I undertook some twenty-something years ago. The subject matters were quite different: my BEng project considered a theory of world-class manufacturing more relevant to a newly democratic and inclusive economy whereas the MSc focused on anti-corruption efforts in procurement. While much had changed in South Africa during that time, the same concern raised as a risk factor in 1997 had, by 2019, become a full-blown crisis: the instability of the state-owned power company, Eskom.

My memories of arriving in South Africa for the first time are muddied. I was born to Xhosa parents in exile and, as such, I had never been able to visit. My parents had eagerly returned to South Africa almost as soon as they were allowed, and my father had taken up work in the diplomatic service. This was not only my first visit to Africa, but it was also my first trip outside Europe. It was one that was both daunting and exciting, as a result.

At the time, almost no academic writing considered the idea of world-class manufacturing in an African context, but I was lucky that my supervisor had taken an interest in forging links with South African institutions. Back then, the paperwork required to undertake fieldwork was minimal. My family loosely arranged my itinerary and some interview contacts, and so I arrived with my four-year-old son in tow to a hot, dusty Johannesburg Airport. I was to meet my tatomncinci (my father’s younger brother) at the airport for what was actually the second time (the first having been some ten years prior to that in Geneva Airport). He would fly with my son to Port Elizabeth while I went on to Cape Town to stay with friends of his and carry out interviews there for the first few days.

You've Reached Your Limit of Free Reading.

Ad-free reading experience
Focused consumption without interruptions.
Unlimited access to exclusive archives
Decades of reporting at your fingertips.
In-Depth Deep-Dive Reporting
Long-form journalism that matters.

About the Author

Nomtha Gray

is an independent writer based in Oxford and Johannesburg.

Comments

SHOP THE REPUBLIC

The Very Nigerian Playbook of Campus Politics

Student unions in public universities played a significant role in Nigeria’s struggles for independence and democracy. Today, however, as godfatherism, repression and declining participation reshape campus politics, student unionism has become a microcosm of the very Nigerian political culture it once sought to challenge.

Dawn Chinagorom-AbiakalamSeptember 13, 2026

The Mysterious Population of Nigeria

Since 2006, Nigeria has not conducted a nationwide population census. In the digital age, can we build a functional country without knowing how many people we actually are?

The RepublicSeptember 6, 2026

‘I, Too, Am Japa-ing’ (Audio Translations)

English translations of the Hausa audio recordings from ‘I, Too, Am Japa-ing’, published on rpublc.com on 6 September 2026.

Umar YandakiSeptember 6, 2026

‘I, Too, Am Japa-ing’

Decades of failed governance, banditry and economic collapse are driving young men from northern Nigeria across the Sahara in search of gold, dignity and a version of manhood Nigeria no longer offers them.

Tomi OlugbemiSeptember 2, 2026

Dennis Osadebe Is Outside

Audience Lead at The Republic, Tomi Olugbemi, talks with Nigerian mixed-media artist and sculptor, Dennis Osadebe, about his new public installation, This is Lagos.

Subscribe to our free newsletter

You're in — welcome to The Republic

Complete your onboarding

Read

Connect

Apps

More

Read

Connect

Apps

More

Fieldwork in South Africa: Then and Now

You've Reached Your Limit of Free Reading.

Ad-free reading experience

Unlimited access to exclusive archives

In-Depth Deep-Dive Reporting

You've Reached Your Limit of Free Reading.

Ad-free reading experience

Unlimited access to exclusive archives

In-Depth Deep-Dive Reporting

Comments

SHOP THE REPUBLIC

Related Stories

The Very Nigerian Playbook of Campus Politics

The Mysterious Population of Nigeria

‘I, Too, Am Japa-ing’ (Audio Translations)

‘I, Too, Am Japa-ing’

Dennis Osadebe Is Outside