‘Na Mumu Dey Go Boutique’

Citing health, economic and sustainability concerns, on 8 June 2023, the Nigeria Customs Service announced the Federal Government’s intention to ban Okrika (thrift clothes) in Nigeria. An essential and thriving aspect of Nigeria’s fashion landscape, Okrika has become deeply ingrained in Nigeria’s culture and commerce, providing a lifeline for many individuals from poor and middle-class backgrounds. The significance of Okrika extends far beyond being a source of affordable clothing; it represents a way of life, a culture and a means of self-expression for countless Nigerians. As the proposed ban looms, Nigerians need to critically examine the concerns raised by the customs service and the implications the ban may have on Nigeria’s fashion industry and the lives of the people who depend on Okrika for accessible clothing options. Additionally, the proposed ban raises questions about the real challenges faced by Nigeria’s local clothing producers, who must navigate issues of pricing and quality in order to compete with both Okrika and new imported clothes. In this context, the debate surrounding the ban takes on a broader dimension, encompassing sustainability and the dynamics of local industry competition.

Growing up in Ilesa, Osun State during the early 2000s, the only guaranteed new clothes my siblings and I received each year were our cherished ‘Aṣọ Ọdún’—our Christmas clothes. We would often share and rotate outfits, breathing new life into familiar items. However, the most reliable and consistent source of clothing for us was Okrika. The Okrika seller on our street would inform my father whenever she had a new bale, and we would embark on Okrika treasure hunts to enrich our wardrobe.

As an adult, Okrika remains a part of my life. When I started my first job in Marina, Lagos Island in 2019, my first payday led me straight to Balogun market. With a salary of N70,000, I sought affordable yet presentable N1,000 shirts and N1,500 trousers. Okrika was the only way I could build a corporate wardrobe within my budget.

These experiences are not mine alone—Okrika has woven itself into the fabric of Nigerian fashion and commerce. It is not just about affordability; it is the thrill of the hunt and the spirit of resourcefulness that make Okrika an inseparable part of our lives. From cherished traditions to exciting new beginnings, Okrika stands as a symbol of sustainability, community and the timeless beauty of second-hand fashion.

OKRIKA: A BRIEF ORIGIN

The roots of Okrika culture in Nigeria can be found as early as the 15th Century when African societies made some of their earliest encounters with Europeans. Over time, as European traders, missionaries and colonizers introduced Western clothing to the continent, locals began embracing Western styles.

This embrace of Western clothing became more pronounced in the late nineteenth century due to several factors. For one, European clothing represented modernity and sophistication, carrying the allure of a different way of life that was associated with the colonizers. In early Nigerian societies, wearing Western clothing became a symbol of social status and assimilation into the changing times.

Christian missionaries played a significant role in introducing Western clothing to Nigerian communities. As part of their efforts to spread Christianity and Western cultural norms, missionaries encouraged the adoption of Western dress as a sign of religious conversion and assimilation into European ways of life. The late nineteenth century also saw the emergence of urban centres and the growth of formal education in Nigeria. As people moved to cities and attended Western-style schools, they came into greater contact with Western clothing through their interactions with colonial administrators, missionaries and other students. This exposure and desire would later intensify through media and communication channels, including newspapers, magazines and photography.

A growing demand for Western clothing gave rise to a market for second-hand Western clothes. Beyond the demand, the 19th century also saw the beginning of mass production of clothing, standardization of sizing and ready-to-wear, which encouraged the export of new and used clothing from Europe, North America and Asia. The term ‘Okrika’ is believed to have originated from Okrika, a town in Rivers State known for its strategic geographical location along the coast—a prime location for receiving goods shipped from Europe. After European ships arrived laden with second-hand clothing, these garments found their way into the vibrant markets of Okrika. Over time, the term ‘Okrika’ became widely used to describe the thriving practice of buying and selling second-hand clothing in Nigeria while alternative terms ‘bend down select’ and ‘boskoro’—condensed from ‘Bọ́ sí korò’, Yoruba for ‘move to the corner’—describe the shopping process of selecting and trying on new finds. Although initially associated with Western clothing, Okrika has over the years evolved to encompass a diverse array of second-hand garments, embracing styles from different regions and fashion trends.

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‘Na Mumu Dey Go Boutique’

OKRIKA: A BRIEF ORIGIN

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